The controversy around bedding for chickens and baby chicks always makes me giggle.
Mostly because, to me, there are clear winners in the quest to keep your baby chicks’ pens clean.
In this video, I break down pros and cons of some of the most common types of bedding and provide my own recommendations for them.
The six types of bedding discussed are as follows:
Shavings (small flake, large flake, saw dust). I personally use large flake shavings.
Newsprint
Paper towels
Sand
Straw
Hay
While it may appear to be a random listing of bedding, to me, there is a clear order, where my strongest recommendations are at the top, and as we go down the list, we get into types that are less ideal as bedding for baby chicks.
Shavings (Small Flake, Large Flake, Sawdust)
We use shavings because they’re cheap and they are easy to find. They’re also easy to clean, and they keep everything clean.
You have some options:
Big flake (they literally just have big flakes in them.)
Small flake shavings
Sawdust
I prefer big flake shavings because it’s really hard for the chicks to actually swallow them. Because they’re curious by nature, you’ll see chicks try and eat the shavings.
They’re not going to be successful in 99.9% of cases because obviously it’s just too big.
However, with smaller flake shavings and particularly sawdust, there’s a chance that they could swallow the wood shavings.
It’s dangerous because they’re eating something that’s not food, and it’s taking up space in their digestive system where actual food could be.
The type of wood in the shavings is also something to consider. Pine shavings are best, because cedar shavings give off fumes that can harm the chicks. So stick with pine and you can’t go wrong.
Newsprint, Paper Towels, & Cloth Towels
Something else that’s pretty popular to use is newspaper and/or towels. These are both okay, and I’ll use them in a pinch. However, the newspaper is not very absorbent.
For example, if they spill their water, you’re going to have a mess. And the last thing that you want is for baby chicks to get wet – because once they get wet, they get cold. And then once they get cold, they stop eating.
Newsprint also has ink on it, which might harm your chicks. We don’t know exactly what’s in these newsprint inks!
I’ve used towels before and they’re okay. But they’re not very absorbent for smells. If your chicks poop on towels (and they will), it can smell a lot more than shavings because there’s nothing to mask the smell.
Sand
Sand is another bedding that’s become more popular in the past few years. Sand is not my favorite for a few different reasons.
The particles are pretty small, so the chicks are going to try and eat it. Additionally, you don’t really know what’s on it. Chemicals? Loads of bacteria? You get the point.
It also doesn’t absorb very well. Your chickens will be pooping on the sand, which means it’ll smell in the rain.
A lot of people like sand because it’s easy to clean. While it is a little bit like kitty litter, it doesn’t absorb the smell very well, and it gets mushy and gross.
Personally, I don’t use it and to the people who follow me, I don’t really recommend it for baby chicks.
Hay and Straw
I’ve used hay and straw in the past. Hay is not quite as good as straw. Straw tends to be more absorbent, and it is easier to get. It’s little more sterile than hay.
Hay could have bugs in it. It could have seeds from who knows what weeds, which can poison your chicks.
They’re pretty good substitutes for shavings when you can’t get shavings. They’re not super absorbent, and they don’t really mask the smell.
With straw and especially hay, I’ve found you have to clean it two or three times a day to keep the scent down. As your chicks get older, and they start eating more, and their poop starts to get stinkier, a brooder with hay or straw can turn into a gross mess very quickly. So that’s another reason why I just prefer shavings.
I hope this helps you decide which bedding for chickens is best for you!
If you suddenly see nasal discharge in your pets, or if your pet sneezes a lot, you might wonder what’s going on. Just like people, our pets can get stuffy noses, runny noses, and suffer from sneezing episodes.
It can take you off guard seeing and hearing your pet sneeze, especially if it is a sneezing fit that takes a few minutes for them to get over. In this article we’ll discuss some of the more common reasons why your pet may sneeze or have drainage from their nose, also referred to as nasal discharge.
Causes Of Nasal Discharge
Nasal discharge refers to any sort of drainage coming from the nose. Drainage from the nose can come in different forms, depending on what the underlying cause is and how inflamed the lining of the nasal passages are. For instance, the drainage can be:
clear,
green,
grey, or
red
and it can be:
thick and goopy, or
very thin.
There are many different things that can cause nasal discharge in our pets. Here is a list of some of the more common reasons your pet may have drainage from the nose:
If your pet’s nasal drainage is due to just an inhaled irritant, it should improve on its own within 24-48 hours and will likely be just clear in color. Nasal drainage due to allergies or viral infections can also sometimes improve on their own if your pet’s immune system is functioning properly and will usually last about 1-2 weeks.
However, if you’re noticing thick, green, mucoid drainage from your pet’s nose, it could indicate they have developed a bacterial infection that will need to be treated with antibiotics.
When To Take Your Pet To The Veterinarian
If you notice anything more than clear, thin discharge, it’s best to take your pet in to see their veterinarian so they can prescribe the right medicine for them.
Your vet can also let you know if anything needs to be followed up on, such as scheduling a dental cleaning (only necessary if your pet has teeth). The reason infected tooth roots can cause nasal drainage is because the roots of the upper teeth are very close to the nasal passages, and if the tooth root is infected, this will also cause inflammation and infection to creep into the lining of the nose.
There are also more serious conditions that result in nasal discharge, which do require medical attention. If you notice blood coming from your pet’s nasal area, or the nasal drainage does not improve on its own within 1-2 weeks, it is time for them to be seen by their veterinarian.
Here is a list of some of the less common, but more serious causes of nasal drainage:
Having something stuck in the nasal passages, such as a blade of grass or pine bedding
Autoimmune inflammatory conditions affecting the nasal passages
High blood pressure
Cancer
If your pet has nasal drainage of any kind for more than 2 weeks or if there is blood present, it’s best to schedule an appointment with your veterinarian for them to examine your pet and discuss if any more extensive diagnostics need to be done to evaluate for the more rare, but serious causes mentioned above.
Causes Of Sneezing
Sneezing occurs when something is irritating to the nasal passages. It is a protective mechanism of the body to try to prevent allergens, infections, and foreign bodies from lodging further down into the lower airways. Oftentimes, sneezing can be caused by similar things that cause nasal discharge. Some common reasons why your pet may be sneezing include:
An irritant that was inhaled, such as dust, pollen, fragrance, etc.
Something stuck in the nasal passages, such as a blade of grass
Sometimes these things can resolve on their own within a few days. If you notice green, mucoid discharge from the sneeze, blood from the sneeze, or if the sneezing doesn’t become less frequent within 5-7 days, you should schedule an appointment with your veterinarian for your pet to be examined.
Nasal discharge doesn’t need to be scary or life threatening. In fact, in some cases, nasal discharge can be a good thing, especially if it helps your pets clear foreign bodies from their nasal passages. However, if your pet exhibits any of the symptoms listed above, then be sure to get veterinary help.
If you just got chicks for the first time, you probably have a million questions. Last year, I did a free YouTube series that answered the most common questions I get about raising baby chicks. Below, I’ve compiled all those videos into a single easy-to-use resource!
This page is easy to use. Just use the table of contents to scroll to the best spot, and watch the video that answers your specific question!
If you have a question that hasn’t been answered yet, please reach out to us at [email protected] and I’ll make a video especially for you!
Feeding Baby Chicks
Can My Chicks Eat…..
Giving Water To Chicks
Nutritional Supplements For Chicks
Brooders & Keeping Chicks Warm
Common Health Questions
When Can Chicks Go Outside With Adult Hens?
Are My Chicks Male Or Female?
How To Raise People-Friendly Chickens
Protecting Chickens From Predators
When Do Chicks Start Laying Eggs?
Where To Buy Baby Chicks
FAQ
Cleanliness is the name of the game today as, inevitably, your chicks will find some way to get their perfect down into a less preferable state.
It then raises some questions about what to do when your chicks get covered in filth, but I’ve got some tricks for just such a predicament!
In this article, we’ll answer the question of “Can you give your baby chicks a bath?”
Why A Wet & Dirty Chicken Is A Bad Idea
When chicks become wet and soiled, they can get cold and stop eating. This can potentially result in hypothermia and possibly death.
Soiling is when your baby chick gets their own or another chick’s poops on their down (which happens more frequently than you might think), or if they somehow get food stuck their down.
It can also happen if your chicks get wet (they fall in their waterer, for example), or if their bedding is wet, and their down becomes caked in food, shavings, and/or poop.
When they’re wet and soiled, the down will stick to them and this will prevent it from keeping them warm.
This will happen, so it’s important to be prepared. Somehow, this season, one of my chicks fell into waterers, which, considering we use mason jar waterers, are pretty hard to fall into. We’ve also had chicks dust bathing and then get wet. They were very unhappy!
So, it’s very important to make sure your chicks are always dry and clean.
Cleaning Your Chicks
Fixing this is quite easy – you can gently bathe your chicks to remove any wet food, poop, etc.
First, rub them down gently with just a washcloth. Some people will actually put their chicks in water, but I don’t recommend it. Instead, just use a washcloth, with nothing on it. I don’t even recommend using baby wipes or any sort of disinfecting towels.
Just use a washcloth with some warm, but not boiling, water on it. Close to room temperature, if not a little bit warmer.
Wipe your chick off to the best of your ability. You might have to scrub a little bit with your finger.
I always wear gloves in case the soiling is poop. Slowly pick at it and very, very, very gently until it’s all removed.
Because they’re small, their skin is fragile and you don’t want to pull on their down and accidentally cause a wound. Picking at it with your finger, rubbing it with a warm, damp cloth, it actually makes it come up pretty quick.
It’s not a hard thing to do, but once there’s no more dirt on them, then it’s time to get them dry.
Drying
Yes, you can use a hairdryer, and no your chicks won’t like it, but it’s better than the alternative!
I use a hairdryer on the low setting and I keep it pretty far away so they don’t get too warm. I move it around a lot so that one area doesn’t get too hot.
Make sure that you’re using a blow dryer that isn’t very hot for this. You just want to blow it dry.
The lowest speed at the coolest temperature is what’s best to use. It might take a few minutes. The last time I did it took 10 minutes to actually get all the down dry.
Very, very gently fluff the feathers to get underneath the down to make sure all the chick’s fiber gets dry.
Another option is to put your chick under a heat lamp and wait for it to dry naturally. It’s going to take longer and I think it is a little more dangerous.
Things To Watch For
Watch your chick for a few minutes afterwards just to make sure that it’s not in distress or that being cold doesn’t cause a health issue.
If it’s been wet for a while or if the ambient room temperature is colder, watch it for a bit longer and just make sure it is kept in a warm area. Provide food and water, and just keep your eye on it to make sure that it is doing well.
Typically, they recover from getting wet and soiled pretty quickly, if you catch it very quickly. Don’t let them sit like that for a while, especially if it’s cold outside or maybe it’s a bit drafty in your home. You definitely want to make sure that you get this solved as fast as possible.
And now you know how to give your baby chicks a bath!
Heard heated chicken waterers can make life easier, but aren’t sure which to buy? Not even sure they’re safe? In this article, we’ll tell you everything you need to know!
For people like us, who raise animals out of the comforts of a heated home, cold is a serious problem. If the temperature drops too far, water freezes. While some animals can break ice – with breath and a hot tongue, or a beak – there are limits to what these resources can do. And when temperatures plummet, dehydration can be a major problem for your fur or feather babies. One solution – heated chicken waterers – are a simple method of providing water to your flock. Today we’ll look at the kinds of heated waterers available for our chickens.
Our Favorite Heated Chicken Waterers On Amazon:
Do Chickens Need to Drink Water?
Oh yes, chickens absolutely drink water. It might be funny to watch them – they fill their mouths and then tip their heads back – but water is an absolutely necessary part of their daily diet. Actually, an adult chicken will drink a few cups of water per day. Get a group of 20 chickens together, and they’ll likely go through as much water per day as a cow.
Are Heated Chicken Waterers Safe?
Mostly, yes. You need to watch out for how hot they get, and how much electricity they draw. It’s best to look at your user manual and reviews online for the specific unit you’re considering.
Are There Different Types Of Heated Chicken Waterers?
Not including home-made, there are three different types of heated chicken waterers:
Automatic Waterers
These waterers contain a basin that has one or more openings at the base that open only when chickens use them. These are generally clean, neat, and very hygienic. Depending on the valve, these waterers also avoid dripping water and frozen puddles beneath them. However, some parts are more prone to freezing.
Gravity-Type Waterers
These operate under the same principle as the automatic waterers, save for one major difference: the distribution method. These jugs generally are attached to an open pan (also known as a “drinker”) that your chickens will drink from. Because they are open, you run the risk of your birds contaminating the pan. The drinkers are also pretty easy to break off.
Open Pans Or Dish-type Waterers
These are often a pan set out over a heated base. They run the same risk of contamination as the gravity waterers, which will require more scrubbing than, say, the automatic waterers. Elevating them off the ground in the heated base will help to reduce the muddying of waters.
What Makes The “Ideal” Heated Chicken Waterer?
This is a complicated question. There are several key elements to consider:
How cold does it get in your area?
How many chickens are in your coop?
What material works best for you?
Should it rest on the floor or be elevated?
Is it durable enough or will it freeze?
Affordability is another concern. Some options – like batteries – can cost a lot over time. Some heated chicken waterers (especially the do-it-yourself variety) could put unnecessary stress on your wallet. How many chickens have you got? The answer to this will determine the size of your waterer, as you don’t want to be slogging out into the cold every couple of hours to refill the water of your birds. In other words, the ideal waterer will completely depend on your flock. Just make sure it’s durable so in the event that the water does freeze, the container won’t rupture or break. Let’s further explore these questions below.
How Big Should It Be?
As previously mentioned, a flock of 20 birds will drink about as much as a cow – that’s a whole lot of water to provide. If your flock consists of fewer than 5 birds, a single 2-gallon waterer should suffice. Most single waterers range in size from about a gallon to 3 gallons. The heaters in heated chicken waterers are very adept at cooling off smaller areas, but anything larger than that could run into problems with the law thermal equilibrium, which states that temperatures will seek a balance. In extremely cold weather, some heaters might prove insufficient in warming large quantities of water. With the addition of more birds, you will probably need more heated chicken waterers. Some sources recommend having on three-gallon waterer for every 10 to 12 chickens.
What Kinds Of Automatic Valves Are There For My Heated Chicken Waterers?
Nipples are a type of automatic valve that is fast becoming a preferred method of watering chickens on cold winter days. These are designed to not release water until your chicken pokes it with their beaks. Floating valves are small cups of water. When your chickens dip their beaks into the cup, they press on a floating valve that releases fresh water into the cup. This provides a constant set amount of water in this hanging waterer.
Should I Use Plastic Or Metal For My Heated Chicken Waterers?
Ultimately, that is your call. Both materials are excellent in cold weather. Plastic waterers are durable and do not break easily. Galvanized metal also holds up very well in extreme cold BUT freezes faster than plastic. Both can be found with internal or external heaters, though plastic heaters usually have the heating element in the base.
Should I Hang My Heated Chicken Waterers Or Lay Them On The Ground?
This is an important question, that depends, in part, on what you have available in your coop or in your pen. One clear benefit of hanging waterers is you can raise it off the ground, and your chickens are less likely to roost on them (which means less poop). Elevating the water from the ground reduces the chances your flock will poop in it. Ground-based waterers don’t have to be messy, however. A waterer set upon a heating pad can still get that required height and also remain equally clean to hanging heated chicken waterers.
How Often Should I Refill My Heated Chicken Waterer?
The easy answer is “Whenever they need filling.” Since most waterers can hold upwards of a couple of gallons, they have a bit of staying power. Still, you should be checking your waterers at least once every day. That way, you can top off the containers when you see they need it, and you can see if they need to be cleaned. Your chickens might have made a mess of the waterers, and you’ll want to clean them up as soon as possible.
Are There Heated Chicken Waterers Without Electricity Needed?
Some heated chicken waterers don’t require electricity, such as solar powered heated waterers. Others include battery-powered heaters. You can read this article here for an excellent how-to that breaks down a number of means of keeping your chickens hydrated – and all without electricity!
What About Solar Heated Chicken Waterers?
The simplest solution would be to have a large black tub that is not too tall for your chickens to reach. Place this into the sunniest part of the coop, and over the course of the day, the heat from the sun might prove to be enough to keep your flock hydrated. In colder climates, however, this might not work as well, and alternative heating might be required.
Are There Do-it-Yourself Heated Chicken Waterers?
There are a number of sources out there across the internet that offer solutions for homemade water heaters. Here’s 2 that we like:
You can usually find them at farm stores, like Tractor Supply. You can also find them on Amazon here:
We hope this information about heated chicken waterers helps you keep your chickens hydrated and healthy, even through the bitter chills have arrived! Stay warm!
When it comes to giving medication to a pet, knowing how to keep a pet from wriggling when giving medicine is of utmost importance. After all, you don’t want to waste any medicine or worse, hurt or stress your pet while giving oral or topical treatments.
If you have a pet, chances are you either have had to give medicine to them before, or you will have to give medicine to them at some point in the future. When you return home from a veterinary visit where your pet was prescribed medicine, you may begin to wonder how you are supposed to get the prescribed medicine into (or onto) your pet.
In this article we will provide some tips and tricks on how to give medicine to your pet without your pet wiggling. Of course, there will probably still be some struggle on the part of both you and your pet, but hopefully with these suggestions life will be a little easier for the both of you as your pet heals.
Giving Medication to a Pet: Types of Oral Medications (Meds Given by Mouth)
Oral medications may come in a few different forms, such as tablets/pills, capsules, or liquid. Depending on the personality of your pet, giving liquid medications may be easier or giving pill medications may be easier. Make sure you discuss what you feel would be easier with your vet so they can see if there is an alternative prescription available. There is no point in prescribing medications if you are physically unable to comply with the directions, and your vet should understand this.
Tablets, Pills, and Capsules
If your pet has a favorite food or treat, you can hide tablets, pills, or capsules in it and give to your pet. Try to not give any indication to them that you are hiding something in their favorite food, so do not let them see you put the medicine in it. Bread, meatballs, lunch meat, peanut butter, or cheese are great options for hiding pills in. You can also hide them in mushy, wet, canned food that is super tasty.
If your pet is one that always spits out a pill hidden in food, you could try using a mortar and pestle to mash up the pill or tablet. Then, mix the mashed up pill into their food or a special treat for them to eat. It would be best to mix it in with something that has a lot of flavor, just in case the mashed up pill has a bitter taste. For capsules, you can just open up the capsule and sprinkle the contents of it into their food or treat.
Finally, if none of these work you will have to give the medication directly by mouth. Do this by following these steps:
Hold the pill in one hand, typically in your dominant hand
Use your other hand to open your pet’s mouth by pulling up on their upper jaw
Gently, but firmly, push the pill into their mouth and insert it as far back on their tongue as you can
Quickly closer their mouth and hold it shut with both of your hands around their muzzle
Quickly blow gusts of air at their nose and mouth gently 3-5 times to get them to swallow
You can also rub their throat gently to try to get them to swallow
Let them drink water to make sure the medication gets all the way down their esophagus and into their stomach. You can also use a syringe to slowly and gently instill a small amount of water into their mouth for them to swallow.
**If your pet gets “mouthy” or gives any indication they may try to bite you if you force something in their mouth, DO NOT attempt to give them medicine directly into their mouth. Call your veterinarian and see if there are any other alternative treatments available. The most important thing when medicating pets aside from them getting healthy, is your relationship with them and preventing bites.
Liquid Medications
If you are giving liquid medication, it is usually easier if you sit behind your pet and pull them in towards you with their back pressing against your front-side. You will both be facing the same direction. Hold the medication syringe in your dominant hand. Use your other hand to lift their upper lip up on the side of their mouth.
Quickly, but gently, push your syringe into the side of their mouth in between their upper and lower arcade of teeth, and push the plunger, instilling the medicine into their mouth. This can oftentimes get messy, as I’m sure you have already experienced. The farther back in their mouth on their tongue you are able to administer the liquid medicine, the less chance you have of your pet just spitting it back out.
As mentioned above, if your pet acts like they may bite, DO NOT try the above mentioned approach. An alternative is mixing in the liquid medication with their favorite treat or food. Canned food works really well for this. You need to make sure your pet eats up all of the food that the liquid medicine is mixed in with, though.
Ophthalmic Medications (Meds Given into the Eyes)
Giving eye medications can be quite a doozy sometimes, especially if your pet is extra wiggly. Eye drops are usually easier to give than eye ointments, because the drops can come out quicker and are easier to aim. Ointments are more difficult since your pet needs to sit very still with their eye open for you to be able to squeeze it out and aim it onto their eye effectively.
When applying eye medication to your pet, it is best if you have someone who can help you. One person can restrain your pet, or keep their head still. And you can administer the eye drops.
However, if you will be putting the medication in their eye by yourself, here is what you’ll need to do:
Try sitting behind them, pulling their back into the front-side of you. This will prevent them from moving backwards away from you, as they will have nowhere to go.
Hold the eye medication in your dominant hand and use your other hand to hold their eye open.
Use your thumb and index finger to separate their eyelids with your non-dominant hand.
Hold the eye medication bottle to within 1-2 inches of their eye.
Quickly squeeze the eye drop or ointment into their eye.
Make sure to not touch their eye with the medication bottle.
Even if the ointment just gets onto the tips of their eyelids, you can gently massage around their eye and eyelids to get it to move into their eye.
Finally, and this is the most important step, give them praise and a yummy treat!!
Otic Medications (Meds Given into the Ears)
If your pet’s ears are painful, giving ear medication can also be quite a hassle. They may even run from you and hide if they see the ear medication bottle in your hand. If your pet is food motivated, try offering them a really great treat or something that is of high value to them when you administer their ear medication.
A good thing that works for dogs, for instance, is peanut butter smeared on the dishwasher or in a cup to lick out. The idea is that this will distract them long enough for you to be able to sneak in their ear medication without them putting up a fight. It also provides a source of positive reinforcement so they see the ear medication as not totally a bad thing.
If this doesn’t work, having someone to help you is the next best option. While someone else holds your pet still, you can flip each ear flap back and squeeze the correct amount of ear medication into each ear canal. Then, gently rub the outer aspect of your pet’s ear near the base to help the medication move down into the canal and break up any gunk in your pet’s ears. They probably will lean into this and appreciate the massage.
If you are putting the ear medication in by yourself, and your pet is not easily distracted by good tasting food, follow these steps:
As mentioned before, sit behind your pet and pull them in towards you with their back pressed firmly upon your front-side so they cannot wiggle away.
Then, with your non-dominant hand hold their ear flap up if they have floppy ears, or just hold their head in place.
With your dominant hand, quickly squeeze the proper amount of ear medication into the ear canal, then massage the base of their ear externally.
Repeat for their other ear, if necessary.
And don’t forget- give them praise and a tasty treat!!
Injectable Medications (Meds Given by Shot)
Some pets will need to be given injectable medications. If you feel comfortable giving shots, your vet may send you home with antibiotics, vitamin B12, allergy shots, or other medications to give by injection at home. Sometimes these are for short-term needs, while some may require long-term administration. For instance, if your pet was recently diagnosed with diabetes, they may need you to give them injections of insulin for the rest of their life.
Most of these shots will need to be given subcutaneously, which means under the skin. The best place to give an injection under the skin is where the skin is the most loose. For many pets, this is the area in between their shoulder blades, on their back, just behind their neck.
The needle used to give the injection should be very small, so your pet should not feel too much discomfort. Don’t worry, you will not hurt your pet with this small needle, either. If you do feel uncomfortable with this task, talk to your veterinarian about it. They will understand and can work with you to come up with ways to be successful.
As with the giving the other medications mentioned above, offering your pet a tasty treat or yummy food that they only get at the time of their medication is a good way to get them excited about getting their medicine. It can also work as a great distraction. While they are distracted eating or licking something yummy up, follow these steps:
Hold the syringe and needle apparatus in your dominant hand.
Use your non-dominant hand to life their skin up where it is most loose.
Inject the needle at a 45-degree angle.
Pull back on the plunger very slightly to make sure you do not see blood.
Then, push the plunger to inject the medication.
Give your pet praise, praise, praise!! Hopefully they will be excited about the next time this happens.
If your pet is not distracted by food, you may need someone to help you hold your pet while you give the injection. For cats, you may have to hold them by the scruff to keep them still while you give the injection. Do not worry, this does not hurt them. It merely keeps them still and actually gives them a slight release of endorphins so they feel somewhat secure.
Giving Medication to a Pet: When to See a Vet
Again, if any of this makes you uncomfortable, or you pet gives any indication of biting, call your veterinarian to discuss alternative options. Do not feel that you have to power through, as the most important thing through all of this is the relationship you have with your pet.
One more tip:
Choking and poisoning should be the first line of protection for pets taking medication, and your veterinarian’s instructions should be followed to the letter. Pet caregivers should take precaution to avoid pet choking by administering pills when the pet is in a sternal or standing position, never while lying down
Patty Hug, College of Veterinary Medicine and Biomedical Sciences, Texas A&M University
Talking to a vet about easier ways to administer medication is a smart choice, especially if your pet is showing other signs related to stress, like lethargy or shaking, whenever you try to give him medication. Your vet might have other tips you can follow to give medication in a pain-free, stress-free way.
